Time and Size Matters – An Evolution of Watch Proportions

By Oster Jewelers | May 8, 2025 0 Comments

From small vintage cases to sleek modern silhouettes, explore how watch proportions have evolved with time, taste, and history.

Watches have been worn, strapped to the wrist, for just over 100 years now. During that time, timepieces have evolved from being a fanciful wrist decoration to becoming the pre-eminent fashion accessory for discerning men and women today. 

In between, the wristwatch found extreme utility and use during World War II, following the humble beginnings as the “trench watches” of World War I. Designs were inspired along the way by important historical events, such as the discovery of the Tomb of Tutankhamun which launched the Art Deco era of design, especially the rectangular watches of the 1930s. It should be noted that the original “Tank” (rectangular) watch was penned by Louis Cartier in 1917, inspired by the battlefields and following the shape of the tanks in the fields as seen from above.

One of the most fascinating aspects of the wristwatch is the different size trends through the ages. Today, one of the first questions many potential watch-buyers ask is which size is appropriate. This primer will talk you through selecting the appropriate size. Of course, there is no substitute for trying on watches yourself to see which size best suits your style, appearance and wrist size. 

Beginning in the earliest days of wristwatches, around the time of WWI the watch size was much smaller than today at an average of 28-32 mm. Each next era saw a steady increase in size with 32-34mm being typical for the “field” watches worn in WWII. The Modernism of the 1960s brought a bolder look for men, with the size growing to an average of 34-36mm. This upward size trajectory was reinforced by the introduction of today’s iconic “tool” watches such as the Rolex Submariner and Omega Speedmaster. Desires to conquer the seas and to reach the moon inspired the functionality and design of the modern watch.

Sizes continued to grow and peaked in the early 2000s when oversized watches were all the rage. Men’s watches averaged from 43mm all the way to the crazy sizes of 50mm and even larger! This lasted until the financial crash of 2008 which saw a return to a more sober style and the gradual reduction in size all the way to today’s classic and vintage-inspired design preference. Although larger watches still exist, the market trend has seen a return to vintage proportions with the average man’s wristwatch today being between 37mm-42mm.  Some even prefer slightly smaller just as some prefer larger. Ladies of course get to choose any size they like with many women today favoring men’s designs. 

Which size is for you? Size comes down to personal style and the purpose of the watch. A pure dress watch would expect to be slightly smaller and likely a little thinner. Perhaps a 36mm – 39mm watch would be appropriate. A sportier appearance, such as a chronograph or dive watch, 39mm – 42mm would be the sweet spot today. It is not unusual today for a watch enthusiast to regularly switch between various sizes depending on the mood of the day or night. 

Ironically, the covid pandemic brought an entirely new generation of watch buyers with “time on their hands” into the market and this generation of buyer also shaped the current trends. Social media and chat groups transformed the owner experience and shared the passion. 

The excitement and styles today are often led by a new era of “Independent” watchmakers and collectors who see the wristwatch as their item of desire, passion, prestige and personality. With the emergence of the cell phone, the watch is no longer a utilitarian tool. Rather, it is an individual expression of personal style. For many, it is an escape from the world of endless technology into a more peaceful world of mechanical beauty. 

Transition from 39mm to 36mm

 A few stores in the world, such as Oster Jewelers, have been at the forefront of this evolution in watch desirability with tremendous support for the Independent artisans. As such, today, a store such as Oster Jewelers is ideally positioned to advise, educate and expertly assist all watch enthusiasts from the beginning novice to the world’s most sophisticated collectors.

Visit Oster Jewelers in Cherry Creek North to learn more about the world of Independent watchmaking and to discover for yourself the beauty of a fine mechanical timepiece, curated and perfectly sized for your wrist. After all, time and size matters. 

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